Cibo

一道小炒肉,半部湖南史

一道小炒肉,半部湖南史 我第一次吃湖南小炒肉,是在长沙一个没有招牌的苍蝇馆子。朋友带我七拐八拐进了一条巷子,门口坐着一个老太太在剥蒜。里面只有四张桌子,墙上贴着一张被油烟熏黄了的塑料菜单。 小炒肉上来的时候我愣了一下。就一个白瓷碗,里面是切得不太整齐的肉片和青椒,酱油色的汁浸在碗底。没有任何摆盘。我心想:你们带我走了二十分钟就吃这个? 尝了一口。我给所有人道歉了。 ---…

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Cibo

手撕包菜,湖南人最后的尊严

手撕包菜,湖南人最后的尊严 我湖南朋友跟我说过一句话:如果一个湖南人请你到家里吃饭,桌上没有手撕包菜,说明他没把你当自己人。 我当时以为是玩笑。后来发现是真的。 --- 必须用手撕。这不是仪式感,是物理。 刀的切口是平的。平整的断面在炒的时候不出水——菜叶表面光滑,酱汁挂不住。手撕的断口是毛的不规则的,像微型的悬崖和峡谷。汤汁渗进去,每一口都带着味。…

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